P.S.- I found out about a week after making the pickguard for this that the floor tile I used might contain asbestos, so if you’re going to make a pickguard like this, use new vinyl floor tiles….

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The Starcaster neck is made of lower quality maple than the Fender MIM necks. Also there is a lot of difference in the quality of the construction. I have used several Starcaster necks on projects. Here is what I found with all of them.

Frets. The edges of the frets are quite sharp. You will need to file them down to make the edges smooth and more comfortable to play. I had one Starcaster neck that the fret ends were so sharp they could cut your fingers.

Finish. The maple fretboard on the Starcaster neck is unfinished. There is no lacquer or polyurethane on it at all. If you play on the neck as it is, it gets dirty looking and discolored fast. Fast as in a few hours of playing, not a few months. The finish on the headstock is a semigloss and not very attractive. I have had to refinish every Starcaster neck that I used.

Proflie. The Starcaster necks have a thick C, or clunky as some call it, profile. They because of that they are a little heavier. I used them when I needed a heavier neck to balance the guitar better than a thinner MIM neck. If you like a thick neck, they are fine. If you want a thinner profile, you will not like the feel of a Starcaster neck. They are definitely a thick profile (curvature of the back side of the neck).

Cost. Maple Starcaster necks with the 70s large headstock sell for around $39 on eBay. The pointy Starcaster necks sell for much less, but who wants that headstock shape? You will spend maybe an hour working down the frets and dressing them. Then you will spend a few hours refinishing the neck. Depends on how much you value your time in determining that cost. A used MIM Fender Standard neck will sell for around $115 on eBay. Sure some go higher, but I have also bought them for $85. The MIM Fender neck is a lot better made. So there is not as much difference in the price as you suggest, not after you consider the cost of getting the Starcaster neck worked up to playing shape.

Also, you can get a Mighty Mite neck for $90 off eBay. I see used ones sell for as little as $65. Those are licensed by Fender and made to Fender specs. They come in different profiles, radius and headstock shapes. I have used a few MM necks and found them to be very good necks for the money. I have not had to rework a MM neck to get it in shape to play. The factory does a good job with those.

Some of the Squier necks come with a maple fretboard and those necks are better than the Starcaster neck. They also come in a thinner profile and are already finished. $50 should buy you a used Squier neck with a maple fretboard, unless it is from a Squier Standard. The Standards are very good guitars and the necks bring more, $75 to $90.

Later,

The Tex Mex is first and has the black cover. The Tom Anderson is second with the white cover.

Let me know what you think. I know what I like better, which do you prefer? Is the Tom Anderson worth more?

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Smaller neck? The Gibson and Epiphone Les Paul guitars have a thicker profile to the neck than Fender uses. That (along with the set neck) gives the guitar the sustain that Gibson is famous for. The Jr or the Special may have a thinner profile (back of the neck shape) than the Standard and Studio. Other brands making Les Paul clones may use a thinner profile neck. While over the years, the profile has changed some on the Les Paul. In the 60s especially they went to a clunkier profile and then later changed back. Currently Gibson and Epiphone use what they call the vintage profile, which I think means the fuller rounded C profile from around 59. Fender uses various profiles on their necks. Most have a C profile. Some of the 80s Strats ahd a thin C profile. Some Strat necks have a vintage soft V profile. The profile tends to make a neck seem thinner even if the width is the same.

Distance across the neck? There is not a lot of difference between Gibson and Fender on that. Nut width is what you are looking at. Gibson used to use a 1 11/16ths inch nut width and Fender used to use a 1 5/8ths inch nut. But some of the made in who knows where Epis have a 1 5/8 inch nut. Some of the Squiers made in China have a 1 11/16th inch nut. So the nut width is not much of a difference. The string spacing may be more of a factor. Gibson used to use a wider string spacing than Fender did, because it used a wider string spacing at the bridge. That may still be true. I have tried to use a Gibson nut on a Strat and found that even though the nut was the same width, the string spacing was different (wider).

One other factor, is the scale length. Gibson and Epiphone use the Gibson scale of 24 3/4 inch. Fender and Squier use the Fender 25 1/2 inch scale. That means the frets will be closer together on the Gibson neck. Other than some Strat clones Epiphone made in the 80s, I think all Gibson electric guitars have a 24 3/4 inch scale. Fender did make some Strats in Japan using a different name, Heartfield I think, that had a 24 3/4 inch scale. But otherwise, Fender has always used 25 1/2 inch scale for its Strats. The other Fender guitars have different scales, such as the 24 inch scale for a Jaguar. But Strats will all be the same scale length.

Have I interpretted your question correctly? If not please rephrase it and I will try again.

Later,

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Reconfigured S-1 switching offers the user even more tonal options, whilst the all-new “overtaking lane” switch instantly routes your signal from any pickup position to the bridge position while at the same time by-passing the tone circuit. Other features include staggered locking machine heads for improved natural sustain and tuning stability, an LSR roller nut, a two-point synchronised American Deluxe tremolo bridge with pop-in arm, and a beveled neck heel. All of which go to make an absolutely magnificent instrument …

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